OPENING
The chief strategic objective in the opening is the
most effective and harmonious development of all the pieces.
DON'T move a piece twice in the opening.
DON'T exchange a
piece that is developed for one that is not developed.
DON'T exchange without good reason.
DON'T block the path of development of your pieces.
DON'T block either center pawn.
-
FIFTH RULE: Do
not bring your queen out early.
-
SIXTH RULE: Castle
as soon as possible preferably on the K-side.
-
SEVENTH RULE:
P--Y TO GET CONTROL OF THE CENTER.
1. What is the center? The four squares in the center of the board, e4, d4,
e5
& d5 ("Little Center") and the sixteen central squares
("Enlarged Center")
2. What is the value of the center? It is the region of greatest
mobility.
3. What is meant by control of the center? The ability to place
pieces on vital
squares without having them captured.
4. How do we get control of the center? .....The very basis of the
chess.
-
EIGHTH RULE:
Always try to maintain at least one pawn in the center.
-
NINTH RULE: Do
not sacrifice without clear and adequate reason.
-
TENTH: Many
players are too prone to attack before firmly establishing what
positional advantages are inherent in their position.
-
ELEVENTH: The
disadvantage of pawn weaknesses is not so much the pawn themselves
but the passive positioning of the pieces, which result in order
to defend them.
-
TWELFTH:
Exchanges usually ease cramped positions.
-
THIRTEENTH:
'Object-Lesson' in 'Maroczy Bind' position, which arises when
white, has pawns at c4 & e4 and black a pawn at d6. White's space
advantage was achieved at the cost of dark-squared weaknesses and
failure to defend results in loss.
-
FOURTEENTH:
When you have a Q-side pawn majority, assuming it is mobile and
not under attack from your opponent's pieces, you can play for the
ending and exchange pieces with confidence.
-
FIFTEENTH: Technique
of a K-side attack involves the opening of files into the enemy
position.
-
SIXTEENTH: Modern Strategy -
Final break through is not made until all the pieces
are on the best possible squares.
-
SEVENTEENTH:
Play well positionally and the tactical fruits will come.
-
EIGHTEENTH:
Seek combination chances based upon your opponent's king position
or any unguarded pieces he may have. In the opening white's
problem is to preserve his initial superiority whereas black's
problem is to secure equality. Therefore, white attacks while
black defends.
CENTER CONTROL
Avoid
over-hasty attacks before completing development. Take sufficient
care
when calculating. When the advantage is of an enduring type, Le.,
weak
enemy
pawns and squares, you can afford to strengthen your position to the
maximum before beginning the final assault. When the opponent's
forces
are
diverted to the defense of a weakness, the attacker can then make
decisive
thrusts
on the other side of the board.
Many
games are lost by tactical blunders. Many would be saved if the
player
took the PRECAUTION, before making EVERY move, of looking around
the
board for any tactical possibilities present (a) in the position as
it stands, and
(b) in
the position, which will occur after he has moved.
COMBINATIONS
Books: duMonfs 'The Basis of
Combination in Chess' and Reinfeld's '1001
Chess
Combinations'
If you have
few opportunities for reading, try in your own games to practice
looking
briefly around each move for combination chances based upon your
opponents king's position or any unguarded pieces he may have.
THE ART OF DEFENSE
The art
of defense is one of the most difficult in chess; not only because
of
the
intrinsic care and avoidance of error required in defensive
positions, but also,
because, psychologically, the inexperienced defender is liable to
PANIC, LOSE
HEART,
or BECOME INPATIENT.
ATTACKING PLAY
It is
necessary to make every move count when a sacrificial attack is in
progress. If a king is in the center and the central files can be
opened, all sorts of
combinations become possible. Masters do not reject cramped
positions as such;
but,
generally speaking, an active game, a pawn down is much preferable
to a
position with level material where you are bound to the defense of a
positional
weakness.
Play well positionally and the tactical fruits will
come.
THE ENDING
In rook
and pawn endings the most important principal of all is to keep your
rook
active.
POSITIONAL PLAY
In the
Ruy Lopez, white's ON usually aims to reach d5 or f5.
The "ALTERNATION
PRINCIPAL" - When your opponents minor pieces are
driven
into a defensive position use your superior mobility to transfer the
attack to the
other
wing.
In the
type of pawn formation which often arises from the KI type of
opening
where
black plays ... c5, white's weakness lies in the fact that the base
of his pawn
chain
at c4 is vulnerable to attack, while black's base at e7 is much more
easily
defended.
Boleshavsky's variation of the Sicilian is nowadays one of the most
popular of
all,
for experience has shown that black's backward d-pawn involves no
difficulties. By
inducing white to play a4, black can make it possible for himself to
post his a-knight on
this
strong square where it supports the coming ... d5; and; ties down
the white queen
to
defense.
-
Avoid early adventure. Develop minor pieces
(knights and Bishops) before major pieces (Queen and Rooks).
-
Avoid giving useless checks.
-
Assume that your opponent will find the right
moves, and don't play for crude traps except in desperation.
Concentrate on applying sound general principles and you will rarely
go wrong.
develop
rapidly, castle early, centralize your pieces. The idea is not
to trick your opponent but to keep on strengthening your position.
Top
According to Bobby Fischer, four ingredients are
essential to success at chess:
1. Concentrate:
-
Just one slip can cost the game.
-
Chess requires total concentration.
-
Many players use only a fraction of their energy.
-
Keep your mind completely on the game.
-
Play to win.
-
Nobody's interested in excuses when you lose.
2. Think ahead:
-
Distrust your first instincts in selecting a move.
-
Sit on your hands.
-
To avoid disaster, each time your opponent moves,
STOP and ask yourself: 'What's the threat?" Don't move
until you understand the position.
-
Remember, it's absolutely essential for your
development as a chess player to adhere to the rule of "touch
move" - once you touch a piece you must move it.
Give no quarter and ask for none.
3.
Learn from your losses Record your games, including the offhand
ones, and
study them later to try to find your mistakes - if you don't already
know what they
were. You are not likely to lose two games the same way, and you
will also retain
a
permanent record of your progress.
4. Study
-
Play over recent games of masters in books and
magazines.
-
Combine this study with actual play against strong
opponents.
-
Spend
as much time at the game as you can.
Top
-
THE PLAYER WHO CONTROLS MORE SPACE ENJOYS SUPERIOR
MOBILITY FOR HIS PIECES.
-
When pieces occupy the center, they radiate
greater mobility.
-
Just keep bringing your pieces out and have
patience.
-
The player who mobilizes all his forces faster
than the opponent secures an advantage in time and space.
-
The
basic principle of force is decisive when all other things are
equal.
-
THE
PLAYER WHO IS AHEAD IN MATERIAL SHOULD TRADE AS MANY PIECES AS
POSSIBLE.
-
THE PLAYER WHO IS BEHIND SHOULD TRY TO AVOID
EXCHANGES.
-
It is essential at all times not to fall behind in
material.
Top
NOTES: BASIC CHESS ENDINGS by
Reuben Fine
David McKay Co [(1941),
Reprint 6/67]
FIFTEEN RULES FOR THE ENDGAME
-
Doubled, isolated and blockaded pawns are weak:
AVOID THEM!
-
Passed pawns should be advanced as rapidly as
possible.
-
If you are one (1) or two (2) pawns ahead,
exchange pieces not pawns.
-
If you are one (1) or two (2) pawns behind,
exchange pawns not pieces.
-
If you have an advantage DO NOT leave all the
pawns on one side.
-
If you are one pawn ahead, in 99 cases out of 100
the game is drawn, if, there are pawns on only one side of the
board.
-
The easiest endings to win are pawn endings.
-
The easiest endings to draw are those with bishops
of opposite colors.
-
The king is a strong piece: USE IT!
-
DO NOT place your pawns on the color of your
bishop.
-
Bishops are better than knights in all cases
except blocked pawn positions.
-
Two bishops versus bishop and knight constitute a
tangible advantage.
-
Passed pawns should be blockaded by the king: The
only piece, which is not harmed by watching a pawn is the knight.
-
A rook on the 7th is sufficient compensation for a
pawn.
-
Rooks belong BEHIND passed pawns.
CONCLUSIONS AND SUMMARY
There are three points, which are so fundamental that they must be
always born in
mind:
-
Without pawns one must be at least a rook ahead in
order to be able to mate. The only exception to this which holds
in all cases are that the double exchange wins and that a queen
cannot defend successfully against four (4) minor pieces.
-
Where one is two or more pawns ahead the win is
routine. By this we mean that a straightforward advance of the
pawns will net considerable material gain, usually at least a
piece. With a piece to the good one can then capture more pawns,
then more pieces and finally mate.
-
The theory of the ending proper is concerned to a
large extent with the conversion of an advantage of one pawn into
a win. The basic principle is that one pawn wins only because
it can be used to capture more important
material. Straightforward advance will not do the trick (as it
will with two pawns). The chief devices to be used in the winning
process are forcing entry with the king, keeping the opponent busy
on both sides (outside passed pawns) and simplification.
Top
PCA's
Selected Principles from the ABC's of Chess
by
Bruce Pandolfini
-
Be aggressive. but play soundly. Don't take
unnecessary chances.
-
Make sure every move has a purpose.
-
Don't ignore your opponent's moves. Don't play
your moves as if they are independent of your opponent's
responses.
-
Play
for the initiative. If you already have it, maintain it. If you
don't seize it.
-
Cut your losses. If you must lose material, lose
as little as possible. If one of your pieces is trapped, try to
sell ifs life dearly. Look for desperadoes (opportunities to gain
some material and/or inflict damage.
-
If you blunder, don't give up fighting. Compose
yourself to avoid additional mistakes. Stay in the game. After
getting the advantage, your opponent may relax and let you escape.
If this fails, you can always resign.
-
Never play an unsound move; hoping your opponent
will overlook your threat and the correct reply, unless you have a
hopeless position. In that case, you have little to lose.
-
Rely on your own powers. If you can't see the
point of your opponent's move, assume there isn't any. Don't play
with fear. It's not as much fun ..
-
Don't sacrifice without good cause.
-
When you can't determine whether to accept or
decline sacrifice, accept it. Either you'll be right or wrong, and
learn something.
-
Attack in numbers. Don't rely on just one or two
pieces.
-
Look for double attacks, and try to play moves
with multiple points.
-
Don't make careless pawn moves. In the opening,
move as few pawns as necessary to complete your development.
-
Try to develop your bishops before blocking them
in by moving a center pawn just one square, unless circumstances
require otherwise or leave you no choice.
-
Develop your pieces quickly, preferably toward the
center (especially knights, which often are "grim" on the rim.
-
Don't waste time or moves. Try to develop a new
piece on each turn. Don't move a piece twice in the opening
without good reason. Amass your forces for concerted purpose.
-
Develop during exchanges. Avoid exchanges that
lose time or build your opponent's game. Don't solve his problems
for him.
-
To exploit an advantage in development, attack.
Hold back, and the advantage might pass to your opponent.
-
Do not bring out your queen early, unless the
natural course of play necessitates it.
-
Develop rooks to open files, or files likely to
open. If such placements are not possible are not possible or
advantageous, consider a file-opening pawn advance. Look to
transfer rooks desirously from one wing to the other.
-
Prepare to castle early, especially for king
safety and to connect the rooks. Don't let your king get caught in
the center. Be leery of opening the center with your king still in
it. Don't castle if it places your king in even greater danger.
-
Try to prevent your opponent's king from castling.
Keep it trapped in the center, particularly in open positions.
-
After castling, don't move the pawns in front of
your king without specific reason.
-
Don't capture pinned pieces until you can benefit
from doing so. If possible, try to attack them again, especially
with pawns.
-
Look for tactics along lines controlled by your
bishops, especially when the enemy bishops are missing or out of
position.
-
Try to avoid early exchanges of bishops for
knights, unless such trades are clearly to your advantage.
-
To strengthen control of a file, double your major
pieces (rooks and/or queen) on it. If you can, force the enemy
rooks out of position.
-
ln cases where you have only one bishop, try to
improve its scope by placing your pawns on squares of the opposite
color. This also insures that squares of both colors can be
guarded.
-
Trade when ahead in material or when under attack,
unless you have a sound reason for doing otherwise. Avoid trades
when behind in material or when attacking.
-
29. Choose a plan and stay with it. Change it only
if you should or must. But don't be ridiculously flexible.
-
If cramped, free your game by exchanging material.
If your opponent is cramped, deter him from making freeing
advances and trades.
-
Trade bad minor pieces for good ones. Avoid
situations that could force you to surrender active pieces for
inactive ones.
-
Study the games of the greats (Garry Kasparov,
Vishy Anand, et al)
-
Play as often as you can. Have fun.
Top
Chess
Lessons by GM
Jeremy Silman
Chess life 9/95 p. 24
-
If
you develop your pieces and control the center in the opening,
then nothing too horrible will happen to you. However, if you just
move pawns, or if you move the same guys over and over again, then
you are begging for some kind of awful retribution.
-
Bad
moves don't always have to be punished directly. Often you can
just develop and improve your position and good things will happen
with no effort on your part. However, if the opponent keeps making
lemons, then you eventually become duty-bound to look hard for a
way to crucify the guy.
-
It
often takes only one error to lose a game at the highest levels.
To lose quickly takes several mistakes.
Chess life 12/95 p.19
-
1.
Don't mindlessly develop your pieces in the opening. Sometimes
more pressing matters need to be taken care of before you get all
your men out.
-
Fix
enemy weaknesses before you attack them.
-
Tying
the enemy pieces down to the defense of their pawns places him in
a passive situation in which he can undertake no aggressive
action. You can torture him to your heart's content free from the
worry that he will be able to start some sort counter-offense.
-
Even
in must win situations the slow piling on of pressure can prove to
be a very efficient method of play.
-
Make
sure that each and every one of your pieces gets to participate in
the battle.
Chess life 1/96 p. 14
-
look
for opportunities to exchange inactive pieces for your opponents
active ones.
-
Keep
your eyes open for possibilities that allow you to trade a weak
pawn for a less vulnerable version in the enemy camp.
-
It is
well worth spending a tempo or two to kill enemy counter play.
-
The
side with less territory should exchange as many pieces as
possible. This gives his other pieces more room to move about.
-
If
your opponent is without counter play, don't hesitate to spend
several tempi to improve the locations of one or a herd of them.
-
Place
a rook(s) on an open file if you can take pennanent possession of
it, or if you want to trade rooks on it or if you want to prevent
the enemy from taking possession of it (which usually leads to an
exchange of rooks).
-
An
open file is only useful if there is a way to penetrate down it
with your rook or queen. lack of penetration points make an open
file all glitter but no substance.
Chess Life 2/96 p. 13
-
Don't exchange pieces that have better long-term prospects than
the enemy versions have.
-
Be
careful not to win material at the expense of your position. If
you are in control, stay that way and avoid any Greek gifts.
-
Use
your pawns to chase enemy knights off of advanced support points.
Chess
Life 4/96 p. 35
-
The
goal of the opening is not to develop your pieces; it's to develop
them to squares where your forces all work together to accomplish
a mutual goal.
-
Quick
development is extremely important in open positions (e.g. no
center pawns blocking the activity of the pieces).
-
The
more pawn-locked a center is, the less important development
becomes.
-
Be
aware of the basic rules of strategy and the reasons for their
existence.
However,
never follow them blindly!
Chess
Life 9/96 p. 13
-
Think
about squares from the first move on.
-
Every
time a square is left unguarded, it becomes a potential home for
an enemy piece.
-
A
weak square may not be a serious problem if an enemy piece can't
reach it.
-
Fischer once said. "You've got to give squares to get squares."
This leads us to believe that all squares are not created equal.
If you can gain access to a square by giving up one of your own,
don't hesitate to do so if you think that your acquisition has
more to do with the plans and problems that both sides are facing.
-
Never
push a pawn without seriously judging its long range effects on
the squares it is supposed to control
|
